Racing against...what?

I would have liked to start with the good, the bad, and the ugly - but unfortunately most are usualy one and the same. (Or at least intertwined to a point not worth elaborating on.) I guess the best way is just to write, and see what comes from it.

So I've begun my shadowing in Walvis Bay, following a young female volunteer who's already been here a year. Since its Sunday evening, I haven't gone into work with her yet, but its at least nice to walk around the Bay and the lagoon area.

Regarding my permanent site, I had discovered that my roommate and I weren't the only Americans around. Jessica, a young woman with the World Teach organization, has already finished her term of service and will be leaving somewhat later in the week. She was at least gracious enough to invite Ian and I to her place for an inpromto-Thanksgiving meal.

While Africa doesn't have turkey, we made due with chicken which was enjoyed by all. Jessica was a great hostess, and spoke to us for hours what living in Usakos is like, and what to expect as Americans. "Usakos is like Africa, USA style." To an extent, it appears to be true. Since there is a significant white population in town, our presence has gone somewhat unnoticed. Well, so far.
But since life is all about collecting stories, its about time I shared one.

A while back, it seems that Jessica was in need of a ride and decided to hitchhike. Unable to find a traveling family or taxi, she reluctantly climbed into the cabin of a big-rig with a Zimbabwian named Francis (or FaFa, as he likes to be called.) Suprising her basic instincts, Fafa turned out to be an incredibly friendly and funny guy, regailing her with stories of his travels. As luck or fate would have it, he decided to drop by on Thanksgiving to pay his respects.

We met Fafa, and he truly seems like a nice guy. He expressed this sadness for Jess's end, but was happy to meet us. Fafa is a trucker that travel all around Southern Africa. He leaves from Walvis Bay with fish from the coast, and transports them to Zimbabwe, Angola, Botswana, and the Congo. Since Fafa is lonely most of the time on the road, he spends his air time (phone time) calling friends and travelers close by just to keep him awake at night. We decided to shoot the shit, and after about the 3rd RedBull chased, it was enough for Fafa to tell us the glory that is trucking in Africa.

"Well, shit - heres some deal. Pumba. you know, Pumba...with the horns? Good meat. Hitting them with a big rig kills them dead. Dead dead. But heres the secret, you gotta hit them STRAIGHT ON. None of this driving over them with the tires - that makes them explode. What you gotta do - is drive directly over them! And then hopefully - the triple axels smash their head in. You get out quickly and finish them off if you have to. If its night time, i throw their sorry ass into the back. But if its daylight, i gut them then and there. Best to do it quick, tick bites can be nasty bitches."

....So I guess there you have it. If you have any choice in the matter at all, hit a warthog from head on.
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While it seems Usakos is closer toward Westernization than most, you don't often have to look far to get a strong sense of reality. While Ian and I went exploring the 4 streets of our town, we had noticed that one of the stores was nothing other than a coffin maker. Just past the open door in the visible eyeline, were dozens of children sized coffins.

The next is something that isn't easy to listen to, and isn't easy for me to talk about. The first thing, is that the Grandmothers of Africa are the closest thing to Guardian Angels I have ever seen. There are entire families composed of children and Grandmothers, who have been forced to bury their own children - victims of HIV/AIDS, and related causes. But the worst of it continues. When these Grandmothers die, there's no one left to care for these kids.

As a health extension volunteer, we had to have one day of training devoted to what are called, "child-headed house-holds," where the oldest child is forced into the position of being the guardian and role model for their younger siblings. Theres much more to comment on what it must be like for these families, but I truthfully think I don't have the stomach or the heart for it right now.
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To finish up on the lighter side, I'd figure I'd answer all the questions laid out by my younger cousins, Nicole and Sophia. I figure since they had the courage to ask questions, I'm sure you had the very same ones.

From Nicole:
So did you see any interesting animals yet???? So far, I've seen Warthogs, Baboons, and a couple of Stray Giraffes. I'm still hoping for a cheetah. :)
Did you meet any interesting people, did u make any new friends??? PLENTY. Many are current volunteers, many are wonderful locals.
What are you eating? Lots of stuff - mainly sheep and donkey meat.
And how did you get the food? Mostly purchased for me so far, there are groceries here, believe it or not!
Is it hard making conversations?? Not yet...Most people speak English, and those that don't are being incredibly helpful with me speaking Damara/Khoekhoegowab. That clicking is hard to do.
What was the most exciting thing you have done or/and seen so far? Lets see...I've held an 8foot South African Python, visited a small Damara children's choir in the middle of nowhere, and found a spider in a bathroom that my roommate referred to as, "a Daddy-Longlegs injected with the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle ooze."
Is it stinky there? Not really. Smells Dry.
Are there any plants there? Plenty. Although most of where I am looks like Arizona. Have your dad look up pictures for you.
How many people do you estimate are positive with HIV/AIDS a day?? I'm told in my area that those aged 18-25, 1 in 5 has it. I visited a doctor however, that "positively asserts" that close to 40% of the population has it.
And my last question what is your favorite cookie?? Well, I take two Oreo double stuffs, and take away two of the layers, and put the remainder together - to get the Star Destroyer of Oreos. Quadruple Stuffed!
and what do you want for christmas?? No idea. Really. I haven't got the foggiest.

From Sophia:
Hi Nick did you get my letter? Not yet. All my mail arrives in Windhoek, the capital, which is about 3 hours away. They'll bring it later, hopefully at the end of this week.
Did you go hunting? Only for stuff in my luggage. Not really food.....yet!
Did you find all my letters in your bags yet? Sophie, every time I did in my bags, I'm finding more of your "notes." :)
If you did go hunting, what did you use and what did you get? A rubber band, a paperclip, and a little super glue. I caught nothing.
So if you got my letter can you write back? When I get it, I sure will.

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Ok, that took long enough. If anyone similarily has any questions, feel free to ask. I'll be more than happy to answer, given enough time.

Oh, and to Robbie - the only DVD I forgot to bring, was Shaun of the Dead. I'm pissed.